Skincare aisles and social feeds make it easy to believe you need ten steps and a shelf full of serums. For most people, a short routine done consistently does more good than a long one done whenever you remember, and it costs a great deal less.
This guide sets out a basic three-step routine, explains how to choose each product by formula and ingredients rather than by brand or price, shows you how to patch test and helps you decide whether any extras are worth adding. It is general information, not medical advice.
The three-step routine
A simple routine has three parts. In the morning, you cleanse if your skin needs it, moisturize and apply sunscreen. In the evening, you cleanse to remove sunscreen, makeup and the day’s grime, then moisturize again. That is genuinely enough for many people.
- Cleanser: once or twice a day, with lukewarm water rather than hot.
- Moisturizer: morning and evening, on slightly damp skin if you like.
- Sunscreen: every morning, as the last step, on any skin that will see daylight.
Consistency matters more than the products themselves. Give any new routine several weeks before you judge it, because skin rarely changes overnight, and change only one product at a time so you can tell what is helping and what is not.
Choosing a cleanser and a moisturizer
Cleanser
A cleanser stays on your skin for about a minute before you rinse it off, so it is a sensible place to save. Look for a gentle formula that leaves your skin feeling clean but not tight or squeaky, which can be a sign it is stripping too much. Many people do well with a basic, fragrance-free option.
The formula type matters more than the brand. Gel and foaming cleansers often suit oily skin and humid climates, while cream and lotion cleansers suit dry or sensitive skin and cold, dry weather. Micellar water, a no-rinse liquid you wipe on with a cotton pad, works as a quick first step for removing makeup. If your skin is dry, a splash of water may be all you need in the morning.
Moisturizer
Moisturizers work in a few different ways, and a quick look at the ingredient list helps you match one to your skin. Humectants, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, draw water into the skin. Emollients, such as many plant oils and fatty alcohols, soften and smooth. Occlusives, such as petrolatum and dimethicone, form a thin layer that slows water loss.
Oily or acne-prone skin usually prefers a light gel or lotion, while dry skin often likes a thicker cream with more emollients and occlusives. Many people use a lighter moisturizer in summer or humid weather and a richer one in winter or dry heat. If your skin is sensitive, choosing a fragrance-free formula removes one common source of irritation.
Sunscreen basics
If you add only one product to your routine, make it sunscreen, because daily sun protection helps reduce the risk of sunburn, skin cancer and early signs of aging. Dermatology organizations commonly recommend a broad-spectrum sunscreen, meaning it protects against both UVA and UVB rays, with an SPF of 30 or higher. SPF stands for sun protection factor, a measure of protection against the UVB rays that cause sunburn.
Use enough: a common guide for the face is about a quarter teaspoon, or roughly two finger lengths, and reapply about every two hours when you are outdoors and after swimming or sweating. Labels vary by country, with “broad spectrum” in the US, a UVA logo in the EU, a UVA star rating on many UK products and a PA rating with plus signs on many Asian brands. Sunscreen matters for every skin tone. Mineral sunscreens, made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, can leave a white cast on deeper skin, so a tinted mineral formula or a chemical sunscreen may suit you better.
Patch test before you commit
Any new product can irritate your skin, whether it is cheap or expensive, gentle or strong. A patch test lowers the chance of a reaction across your whole face, and it takes only a few days:
- Apply a small amount to a discreet spot, such as behind the ear, the inner forearm or the side of your jaw for face products.
- Repeat once or twice a day for several days, following the product’s usual directions.
- Watch for redness, itching, burning or bumps. If any appear, wash the product off and stop using it.
- If your skin stays calm, start using it on your face, at first every other day for strong active products.
A patch test is not a guarantee, but it catches many problems early. If you have a skin condition such as eczema, rosacea or persistent acne, or a reaction that does not settle quickly, see a dermatologist or doctor rather than experimenting with more products.
Extras worth considering, one at a time
Once your basic routine feels steady, you might add one targeted product. Common options include retinoids, vitamin A derivatives such as retinol that are widely used for texture and signs of aging; niacinamide, found in many products aimed at oiliness and uneven tone; and exfoliating acids such as glycolic or salicylic acid. Introduce only one at a time and start slowly, since retinoids and acids can cause dryness or irritation and can make skin more sensitive to the sun, which makes daily sunscreen even more important. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask a doctor before using retinoids.
How to keep costs down
Price is a poor guide to results. Similar ingredients turn up at very different prices, and packaging, marketing and the store you buy from all affect what you pay. In the US and EU, ingredient lists are generally ordered from the highest concentration to the lowest, so the first few lines tell you what most of the product is. Compare products by formula type and those first ingredients, then compare the unit price, which is the price per milliliter or ounce. As an assumed example, a $15 moisturizer in a 50 ml tube costs 30 cents per milliliter, while a $40 cream in a 30 ml jar costs about $1.33 per milliliter, more than four times as much for the same amount of product.
- Try before committing. Buy travel sizes or ask for samples before paying for a full size.
- Check the return policy, since some retailers accept opened beauty products and others do not.
- Do not stockpile. Many products show a “period after opening” symbol, an open jar with a number such as 12M, meaning roughly how many months the product is good for once opened.
- Stack small savings. Our guide to combining coupons, cashback and card rewards shows how to trim the price when you do buy.
The bottom line
A cleanser, a moisturizer and a daily sunscreen chosen for your skin type and climate cover the basics for most people, and none of them needs to be expensive. Patch test new products, change one thing at a time and give each change a few weeks. When you are ready to look at makeup the same way, read our guide on whether drugstore or premium makeup is worth the money, or browse more ideas in our fashion section.
