Trends move fast, and buying each one new is an expensive way to find out whether you actually like it. Secondhand shopping lets you try a new shape or color for a fraction of the price, and because fashion runs in cycles, many of this year’s “new” looks are already hanging in thrift stores from the last time around.
This guide covers where to shop, how to find a trend when nothing on the rack is labeled with its name, how to check fabric, fit and condition before you pay, and which pieces are most worth buying secondhand. It also covers what to skip, so a bargain does not turn into clutter.
Where to look, and what each option is good for
Thrift stores, called charity shops in the UK, usually have the lowest prices and the most unpredictable stock. Consignment and vintage shops choose what they sell, so prices are higher but you spend less time digging. Online resale marketplaces, such as eBay, Depop, Vinted, Poshmark and ThredUp depending on where you live, let you search by size, brand and keyword from your couch.
Each option has trade-offs. In person, you can touch the fabric and try things on, but many thrift stores do not accept returns. Online, you can compare dozens of listings quickly, but you rely on photos and measurements, and shipping can wipe out the savings on a cheap item. Pay through the marketplace’s own checkout, since paying a seller directly usually means losing any buyer protection. And do not forget free options: a clothing swap with friends is a good way to trial a trend at no cost.
How to find a trend without its name
Trend names rarely appear on secondhand tags. Instead, break the trend down into what makes it work: the shape, the fabric, the color or a detail. A trend for wide-leg trousers becomes a search for “wide leg” in your measurements. A trend for suede jackets becomes a scan along the outerwear rail for that particular texture. A color trend means looking across the racks for one shade, which is often faster than reading every tag.
Online, save searches with your size and the key words, and turn on alerts so new listings come to you. Search older terms too, since earlier versions of a trend may have been called something else. In stores, visit little and often rather than making one big trip, because stock changes constantly, and ask staff which days new items usually go out on the floor.
Check the fabric
Start with the label. The fiber content tells you how a garment will wear, wash and feel, and it also helps you judge the price: a wool coat and a polyester coat can look similar on a hanger but behave very differently once you wear them. If the label is missing, judge by feel and weight, and be more cautious about what you pay.
- Hold it up to the light to spot thin patches, small holes and moth damage in knits.
- Check high-wear areas: underarms, collars, cuffs, inner thighs and the seat of trousers.
- Look for stains near a window if you can, since store lighting hides a lot.
- Feel for pilling, which you can remove, and for stiffness or shine, which often cannot be fixed.
- Smell it. A mild musty smell may wash out, but strong smoke or damp odors can be hard to shift.
Check the fit
Sizes vary between brands and decades, so ignore the number on the tag and go by measurements. Keep a note on your phone with your own key measurements and those of a garment you love, such as the chest width of a favorite jacket or the inseam of your best trousers, and carry a small tape measure when you shop. Online, compare the listed measurements with that note and ask the seller for any that are missing.
Know what a tailor can and cannot fix. Hems, waists and sleeve length are usually straightforward. Shoulders are difficult and costly to change, so a jacket or coat should already fit there. If there is no fitting room, wear a thin, close-fitting outfit so you can try pieces on over it, then move around: sit, reach and raise your arms before you decide.
Check the condition
Before you pay, test everything that moves. Run zippers up and down, check that every button is present and firmly sewn on, and pull gently at seams to look for gaps. Look inside coats and jackets at the lining, and make sure pockets have not torn at the corners.
For shoes and bags, look at the soles, heels, corners and edges, where wear shows first. Leather should feel supple rather than dry and cracked, and straps and handles should be securely attached. Small repairs such as a missing button or a loose hem are fine if you will really do them, but be honest with yourself. A fix you never get around to makes even a cheap item poor value.
What is worth buying secondhand, and what to skip
Some categories reliably reward the hunt, because they are built to last, cost a lot new or are easy to judge in person:
- Coats and blazers, especially in wool, where the gap between new and secondhand prices is often large.
- Denim, which is hard-wearing and often looks better once it is broken in.
- Knitwear in wool or cotton, once you have checked for holes and pilling.
- Leather belts and bags, which can last for years with basic care.
- Occasion wear, such as dresses and suits, which are often barely worn.
- Scarves and other accessories, an inexpensive way to try a trend color.
Be more careful with items that shape themselves to their owner or are hard to clean. Shoes that have molded to someone else’s feet may never feel right, stretchy pieces with tired elastic rarely recover, and many people prefer to buy underwear and swimwear new. Whatever you bring home, wash or clean it before you wear it.
The bottom line
Secondhand shopping saves the most money when you go in with a plan. Set a spending limit for each trip and shop from a short list, so a low price is never the only reason you buy. To stop your closet from slowly filling up, try a one-in, one-out rule: each time you bring a piece home, pass another on by selling, swapping or donating it. Before you pay, ask whether the piece fills a real gap and works with at least three things you already own, a habit our guide to building a capsule wardrobe on a budget explains in more detail. If you like the polished, low-key look that thrift racks are full of, read our guide to quiet luxury on a budget, and browse our fashion section for more ideas.
